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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.